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TA L K
C O A ST S U LL E N G E R , A N D R E S R U S Z KO W S K I
T H E O C E A N A N D B E A C H E S A R E A
K E Y AT T R A C T I O N F O R T H O S E WH O
P R E F E R P E A C E A N D T R A N Q U I L I T Y
Opposite, top:
Ponies graze
by the Atlantic.
Opposite,
below:
Casa Grande
This
page,
right:
Guests at
Estancia San Martin
Starting with the coastal city of Mar del
Plata and extending down along the Ruta
88 to the large port town of Necochea, the
seemingly quiet farming region – located on
Argentina’s Atlantic coast to the south of
the province of Buenos Aires – reads like
the who’s who of old Argentine families
and grand estancias.
Some of the better-known names are
Bellamar, Moromar and Fray Guen, with
thousands of hectares each, as well as
beautiful polo facilities. Estancia Comalal,
one of Prince Philip’s favourite destinations
according to local sources, and neighbouring
Malal-Hue, which boasts a grandiose
castle. Some large estancias are now
owned by foreigners, mostly Americans
and Europeans, yet while most local shops
are still in the old gaucho style, unchanged
for many years, the area has a cosmopolitan
feel and an incredibly vibrant polo scene.
Indeed, the region has a long history of
polo and is currently undergoing yet another
revival. At the forefront is Estancia San
Martin (ESM), an enclave of polo, located
a 45km drive south of Mar del Plata off Ruta
88, with its historic colonial-style main
house often referred to by locals as the ‘Casa
Grande’. Originally, San Martin was at the
centre of nearly 60,000 hectares of cattle
and crop farming in this frontier zone, and
polo was a big tradition for the local
landlords and gentry. Today in ESM there
are several polo fields and guest lodges, in
addition to the Casa Grande that was
recently renovated and which is opening
a unique country club development catering
to international polo families, with the
main idea of offering polo players and their
families the advantages of a private estancia
for a modest investment.
Thanks to these large working estancias,
the coastline is not overly developed and it
retains its natural beauty. Farms of 2,000 to
5,000 ha are the norm, and these farms
extend from the Ruta 88 all the way to the
sea several miles away. The ocean and
beaches, a short drive from any point, are
a key attraction of the region, especially for
those who prefer peace and tranquility
rather than stepping over towels searching
for a spot among crowds. Plus, with a range
of activities including yoga, trial riding,
surfing and riding on the beach, for the polo
world it beats polo holidays that only offer
polo and a swimming pool.
In ESM, the three professional Riglos
brothers maintain a successful breeding
operation and supply horses and training in
the region and beyond. Rancho Tinto, owned
by Swiss polo patron Cédric Schweri also
offers guests a luxury experience with
stunning views over the polo field and the
endless pampa landscape beyond.
In addition to Estancia San Martin, there are
several “open policy” polo clubs located both
in Mar del Plata and Necochea, such as Polo
Riglos, and private estancias are also an
active and integral part of the polo scene
and the community. Access is possible
mainly through ESM and Rancho Tinto, and
guests to the region could end up on the field
with legendary Tommy Llorente, who played
in the Palermo Open.
Visiting players may share the field with
any number of juniors, sons of professional
players who, at 14 or 16 years old, are
already playing off 3-4 goal handicaps.
They are training young horses, they are
passionate about polo and they love the
opportunity to help patrons and beginning
players improve. Every level of polo can be
found all over this region and several of the
local clubs such as La Lechuza in Necochea
and Mar del Plata polo club host annual
tournaments that are open to all.
To fit in with the locals, some key terms
that could come in useful before heading to
Estancia San Martin are:‘Piquata’ – an
aperitif, the traditional drinks and snacks
served before dinner at around 8pm;‘asado’
– the traditional Argentine-style barbecue,
sometimes with a mix of tasty lamb, beef
and pork; and, most importantly, ‘golasso’ -
what everyone yells when someone scores
a beautiful goal on the field!
